Up and down. Up and down. This is what walking around Lisbon and its seven hills is like. But, with beautifully motifed sidewalks and intricately tiled building facades, there are no complaints here. Plus, what better way to burn off your vinho verde and pastel de nata (egg tarts)?
We arrived in Portugal as a new family of 4, deciding on a country with a fairly simple flight path and one that we heard is family-friendly. Our plan was to acclimatize in and enjoy Lisbon before renting a car to head on a loop of the country (Lisbon > Algarve > Evora > Monsanto > Duoro Valley > Porto > Lisbon). First stop, as mentioned: Lisbon.
Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in the world, predating capitals like London, Rome or Paris. Unfortunately, much of the original city was destroyed by a massive earthquake in 1755 and since rebuilt. Thus the city is an endearing blend of historic, ramshackle, and charming all at once. On top of that, Lisbon boasts a diverse culture secondary to immigration from Brazil and Portugal’s former colonies in Africa.
Traveling in late September, we were amazed by how many tourists envelop central Lisbon at this time of year. I can’t fathom what high season is like. Despite this mass takeover, people were friendly and we felt very welcome.
The Great Earthquake of 1755
For something that happened a long time ago, the Great Earthquake of 1755 comes up often when discussing Lisbon. This devastating quake, in combination with mass fires and a subsequent tsunami, destroyed the vast majority of the city and had an estimated death toll of 40 000.
The Great Earthquake forever changed the landscape of Lisbon. In the aftermath, the city was rebuilt with purpose – creating large plazas and wider streets to allow for effective transport of goods.
An interesting area to visit is the Alfama district, which was one of the only regions unaffected by the disaster. This neighborhood, the oldest in Lisbon and the second oldest in Europe, gives a glimpse into what historic Lisbon would have looked like. It is a maze of cobbled streets meandering from the riverbank to the top of the Sao Jorge castle.
This area is described as gritty, as it historically housed the city’s poor living outside the castle walls and later, as a growing port city, the sailors and dockworkers. Now it is an up and coming area – keeping its unique character but now with the addition of elegant hotels and renovated apartments.
The best part of visiting is getting lost within the labyrinth of narrow streets with colourful buildings, neighbours chatting, and laundry drying on clotheslines above. Though the numerous slopes and winding staircases might be challenging, a rewarding viewpoint is at almost every corner. Even when you least expect it: we stopped at a playground near the castle which boasted as beautiful a panoramic view as the popular “miradouro” below it (but without a single tourist in site!).
Baixa
Baixa is the most central neighborhood of Lisbon and seems to be the heartbeat of the city, always lively and bustling. It also seems to be home to some of the only flat areas of Lisbon. Two of the city’s grandest plazas are located here: Rossio Square and Restauradores Square. Somehow we found ourselves funneling down to either of these squares multiple times a day.
Northwest of Baixa is Bairro Alto, an area that feels like a ghost town in the day but comes to life in the night. Principe Real is bougie with elegant homes and fancy boutiques. Just west to Baixa is Chiado, with a nice waterfront and home to the original TimeOut Market. A little further out takes you to LX Factory (an industrial complex from the 19th century that now houses shops, restaurants, offices and cafes).
TimeOut and LX Factory both seem to have a bad rap as tourist traps. This may be true, but TimeOut will always have a special place in my heart after it opened beside my apartment in Boston. And LX Factory – though apparently initially a cool arts area turned to overpriced tourist locale – was still fun to explore for an evening. As long as your expectations are in check: neither will give you an authentic Portuguese experience, but can still be enjoyed for the things they offer.
My favorite was the Ler Devagar bookstore at LX Factory:
Waterfront: Lisbon’s Own Golden Gate Bridge
Why is not more commonly discussed that Lisbon has its own Golden Gate Bridge? We were shocked to see this red suspension bridge which, with its structure and surrounding landscape, is surprisingly similar to San Franciscan’s own bridge:
Apparently both bridges were constructed by different companies and have obvious differences, but I still argue there is something to it. But, out of interest, this bridge is Europe’s longest suspension bridge.
Family Priority Law
Prior to arriving in Portugal, I had heard about the priority law – an official law that makes it compulsory for establishments to allow pregnant women, those with disabilities or parents with infants to pass ahead of other customers (or risk a fine). I assumed this would apply to the occasional museum or attraction in the city, but was shocked by the treatment we received at all sorts of locations – even when least expected.
We would stand in line at the grocery store and, before we knew it, someone would shuffle us to the front. Standing in the back of a long line for a bus we were sought out and let on first. Riding the trams, the elderly would give up their seat for us. We tried to decline (normally we would be the ones giving up our seat for a senior), but were quickly scolded by a local that we would be rude to refuse.
Overall this made us feel appreciated, and was a refreshing approach to parenting. Sometimes in North America you feel like a burden arriving at an establishment with your little ones, but here we were always welcomed with open arms.
