In the southernmost region of Portugal is the Algarve – a sunny vacation destination for Europeans and international visitors alike. Numerous beaches and resorts can be found among the white-washed fishing villages that dot the coast, most of which can be enjoyed year round.

But I think what makes the Algarve truly spectacular is the wild and natural beauty of the coastline: the jagged steep cliffs, rock formations, and many arches and caves hidden in the rock.

The reason for this dramatic coastline is the unstable limestone cliffs which are prone to rock falls and landslides. (This is a hard fact to miss due to the numerous warning signs on the beach illustrating loose, falling boulders on beachgoers). This, combined with the constant battering and erosion by the sea, has resulted in numerous inlets and bizarre rock formations.

But it’s not just about the nice views; this “Golden Coast” is just that – home to golden sandy beaches of all types. Wild, quiet and unadulterated versus well-serviced, buzzing beaches with umbrellas and beach-front restaurants. And, sometimes, if you don’t like the beach you’re on, look for a nearby tunnel or cave to explore and you might end up in a whole new location. It’s easy to find a shore that meets your needs.

 

Western Algarve: Lagos

We spent our time in Lagos, a walled-in city on the west coast of the Algarve. Lagos (“lah-goosh”) is a typical seaside tourist town with its mix of tourist shops and restaurants, a pretty waterfront walkway, and a few charming squares and cobblestone streets in old town. Ancient walls encircle this historic centre, with a more modern city sprawling beyond.

We happened to stay in one of the most child-friendly hotels we’ve ever been to (unknowingly!). Our room was stocked with a fully equipped changing table, baby bathtub, and potty. The restaurant food menu included purees made fresh for a baby. Elia received an activity book which took her on a tour of the hotel gardens as well of old town Lagos. This further builds my growing belief that Portugal must be one of the most child-friendly places to travel!

Our days in Lagos were varied. Some days we strolled down the waterfront promenade with cries of seagulls overhead and the smell of salty ocean water in the air. Other days we spent on the beach, with one (Praia dos Estudantes) that can be easily reached from town via the promenade. Though not as free of seaweed or as calm as some others, this was convenient when we wanted to walk right from our hotel.

Other days, when we weren’t cooling off in the hotel pool, we hopped in the car to explore the well known neighboring beaches Lagos has to offer: Praia Dona Ana and Ponta da Piedade. These were nicer than the beaches closer to town, and worth the short drive to get to them.

Praia de Marinha demonstrated more beautiful soaring cliffs and arches. We read about the seaside town of Ferragudo online and planned a short stop here as well:

Our many drives even took us to some of the best spatchcocked chicken around: Portugal’s famous piri-piri chicken (not like the now popular South African Nando’s “peri-peri chicken”). Piri-piri chicken originated in the Algarve and there are many churrasqueiras (a grill-based eatery) selling a bite. We followed a local’s recommendation to an unassuming roadside stop that served us such delicious chicken that we ordered a second “to-go”.

What makes it special, you ask? I don’t really know, as the recipe is a simple mix of oil, piri piri chillies, plus/minus a few herbs or citrus. Maybe it is the small, grass fed chickens? Whatever it is, something about this oily, crispy skinned chicken is delectable.

To top it off, despite the restaurant being full of locals and we the only English speakers, we were welcomed warmly. The serving staff showed our kids magic tricks and made them laugh. A grandma at the neighbouring table picked up our baby and walked around with her while we ate. Maybe, in the end, this is what made it special?

 

Eastern Algarve: Tavira

Though we remained based in Lagos for our entire stay in the Algarve, I would have added a stopover in Tavira if we had more time to spend on Portugal’s east coast. The town feels larger than Lagos, and even more charming. The coastline here shifts to be less dramatic and steep, with more sandy windswept beaches.

Overall, the Algarve has so much to offer and we could have spent another week trying to explore it more fully. But, instead, it is time to head back in the car and begin our drive to the north.