When we reflected back on our time in the city, we realized Lisbon doesn’t really have a distinguishing landmark or site. However, I would easily recognize Lisbon (or many other cities in Portugal) if plopped there out of the blue by a few unique features: its Portuguese pavement, azulejo tiles, and historic trams.
Portuguese Pavement
“Calçada portuguesa” (Portuguese pavement) refers to the small cubes of pavement that make up many of Portugal’s sidewalks and plazas, beautifully arranged in various patterns and mosaics. Most commonly made of limestone and coloured in black and white, these artisanal creations are astounding!
This unique form of paving originated in Lisbon in 1842 at the Sao Jorge Castle at the top of the hill. The Lieutenant General at the time ordered the stronghold to be paved with a zigzag pattern of black and white stones. The citizens of Lisbon loved the dizzying display and, soon, similar creations sprung up all over Lisbon, Portugal, and eventually in the nation’s colonies as well. A good example is the iconic wave pattern in Lisbon’s Rossio Square (below), which has been replicated in numerous cities, including the walkway at Rio de Janeiro’s famous Copacabana Beach.
Calcada portuguesa is seen as a staple in Portuguese culture and identity, though there are several threats to its existence. The first is a lack of “calceteiros“, the professional stone pavers who create and maintain this intricate stonework. The job is arduous, with long hours in the hot sun and typically low wages. The small stones must be shaped, laid out like a jigsaw puzzle, and hammered into place. Pieces are constantly popping up, requiring regular and frequent maintenance. Though a school was created in Lisbon to educate new calceteiros, there is a struggle to graduate enough pavers every year.
The second major issue is safety. These pretty cobbles are slippery when wet and have a tendency to loosen and become unstable. Many residents complain about falls and injuries, and the elderly feel unsafe walking on these stones in the hilly environment. City council is considering adding strips on concrete in wider sections of sidewalk, or replacing some of the limestone cubes with granite which tends to be grippier. There is a struggle to balance the desire to maintain such a cultural staple in Portugal, while maintaining the safety of its citizens and tourists.
Azulejos: Portuguese Tiles
“Azulejos” are intricately-painted Portuguese tiles that adorn numerous buildings throughout Lisbon and the rest of the country. Though this may not sound unique (I’ve seen pretty tiles in other countries, you say), the tiles in Portugal are as much a construction material as they are a decorative item. They embellish entire buildings and are ubiquitous in nature; azulejos are not reserved for municipal buildings or site of interest. Sometimes the most derelict structures have the most beautiful tiles.
In fact, in the early 20th century, azulejos fell out of favour and were seen by the upper class as something for the poor. The revival only began in the 1950s when Lisbon’s metro system designers wanted to give the stations some flair and created beautiful murals and mosaics out of the tiles.
Now, azulejos are seen as both an art form and quintessential to Portuguese culture. Entire train stations, concert halls and libraries have become canvases for large murals created by contemporary artists.
Historic Trams
Bouncing along in a rickety track with wind blowing through wide open windows describes a ride in one of the historic wooden trams of Lisbon. These trams maintain all their old-world charm with wooden interiors and brass fittings, and the creaks and cracks one would expect from a tram running since the early 1900s.
But more than a homage to the past, the few remaining historic trams in Lisbon remain a critical mode of transport for locals in the central neighborhoods of the city where the streets are too narrow and windy for other vehicle types. These small trams creak up the hills and take tight corners without much trouble!
We rode these trams several times in order to navigate central Lisbon easily. Not only did Elia get a huge thrill out of every ride, but the trams got us from one neighborhood to another with ease. Each time we climbed aboard it felt like a step into the past, and we enjoyed interacting with locals who often asked about our baby and were kind enough to offer up their seats.
